Laying pavers takes about a weekend for a 10 x 12 ft patio — most of that time is the base preparation, not placing the pavers themselves. Do the base right and the surface will stay level for 20 years. Rush the base and you will be lifting pavers inside of five.
Materials for a 120 sq. ft. Patio (10 x 12 ft)
| Material | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Pavers | 132 sq. ft. (10% waste) | Choose your pattern first |
| Crusher run base | 3 cu. yd. compacted | 6-in. depth + overhang |
| Coarse concrete sand | 0.5 cu. yd. | 1-in. bedding layer |
| Polymeric sand | 2 bags (50 lb each) | Joint fill; varies by joint width |
| Edge restraints | 44 linear feet | Perimeter of the patio |
Use the paver calculator to size materials to your specific dimensions.
Before You Start
Call 811 at least two business days before digging. The free service marks underground utilities — gas, water, electric, cable — in your dig zone. Patio excavation typically goes 10 inches deep, well within the range of buried lines.
Check your HOA rules and local codes for patio placement setbacks from property lines.
Step 1 — Mark the Layout
Stake out the patio corners with wooden stakes and mason’s line. Square the corners using the 3-4-5 triangle method: measure 3 feet along one edge and 4 feet along the perpendicular edge; the diagonal between those two points should measure exactly 5 feet. If it does not, adjust until it does.
Mark 6 inches outside your patio perimeter — the base needs to extend that far beyond the pavers for edge restraint support.
Step 2 — Establish Slope
Before excavating, set your string lines to reflect the finished paver surface. Slope 1 inch per 4 feet away from any structure. Over a 10-foot patio depth, that means the far end of the string line is 2.5 inches lower than the house side.
Step 3 — Excavate
Dig to the correct depth: paver thickness + 1 inch bedding sand + base depth.
Example for a patio with 2-3/8 in. pavers and a 6-in. base:
- 2-3/8 in. pavers + 1 in. sand + 6 in. base = 9-3/8 in. — excavate to 10 inches
Remove all sod and organic material. Compact the exposed subgrade with a plate compactor before adding base material.
Step 4 — Install the Base
Spread crusher run (dense-grade aggregate) in 2-inch layers and compact each layer with a plate compactor. Do not dump 6 inches at once and compact once — the bottom will remain loose.
- Target: 6 inches of compacted base for patios
- A plate compactor should have at least 5,000 lb of compaction force
- Wet the base slightly during compaction to help it consolidate
- Check level frequently with a long straightedge against your slope string lines
According to the Oregon State University Extension paver guide, the base should be leveled, sloped, and to grade before bedding sand is added.
Step 5 — Screed the Bedding Sand
Lay two 1-inch-diameter PVC pipes across the compacted base parallel to each other, separated by the width of your screed board. Pour coarse concrete sand between and around them, then draw a long 2x4 across the pipes to level the sand to exactly 1 inch depth. Carefully remove the pipes and fill the impressions with sand.
Do not compact the sand at this step. Do not walk on the screeded surface.
Step 6 — Install Edge Restraints
Plastic or aluminum edge restraints go around the entire perimeter before you lay a single paver. Spike them into the base, not just the soil. Without edge restraints, the perimeter pavers will creep outward over time, opening up the entire field.
Step 7 — Lay the Pavers
Start from a fixed corner or straight edge. Set each paver by positioning it close to its target location, then lowering it straight down — do not slide it across the sand. Sliding displaces the screeded surface and creates high spots.
Use string lines or a chalk line to check that rows stay straight. Many modern concrete pavers have built-in spacer nibs on the edges that automatically set joint width. If yours do not, use plastic spacers or cut pieces of 1/4-inch plywood as spacers.
Work from the laid pavers — do not kneel on the sand bed. Use a board across several pavers to distribute your weight as you progress.
Step 8 — Cut Pavers
Mark cut lines with a pencil or chalk. Cut with a circular saw fitted with a diamond blade (dry-cut) or a wet-cut masonry saw. Wear eye protection, hearing protection, and a dust respirator — silica dust from cutting pavers is a serious health hazard.
For curved edges, make multiple straight cuts that approximate the curve, then chip away remaining material with a cold chisel and hammer.
Step 9 — Compact the Paver Surface
Once all pavers are placed, run the plate compactor (with rubber mat or paving pad attached) over the entire surface. This seats the pavers into the bedding sand and locks them into mutual contact. Make two passes in perpendicular directions.
After compacting, check for high or low spots. High pavers can be tapped down with a rubber mallet. Low pavers must be lifted and sand added underneath.
Step 10 — Fill Joints with Polymeric Sand
Sweep polymeric sand across the surface, broom it into all joints, compact again, sweep off excess, and activate with water per the manufacturer’s instructions. See the polymeric sand guide for the full activation sequence.
Allow 24 hours before foot traffic, 48–72 hours before vehicle traffic.
Common Mistakes
- Skipping subgrade compaction. The native soil must be compacted before the base goes in or it will settle unevenly.
- Too much bedding sand. More than 1.5 inches of sand creates a rocking surface — pavers teeter on each other.
- Walking on uncompacted sand. Every footprint in the sand bed creates a high spot that shows in the finished surface.
- No edge restraints. Without them the perimeter slowly opens up and the whole field shifts.
- Compacting without a pad. A bare steel plate will chip or crack pavers; always use a rubber compaction pad.